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Rollin'
With "Rock Style"
By
Theresa Herron |
Go
rollin' on the river with Tina Turner's micro-minidress. Find
your material girl coming a little closer with Madonna's bustier
and garters. Let the rock style and fantasy of stage become part
your musical reality. All this by taking the time machine through
rock history via "Rock Style," an exhibition of rock
stars' costumes on view through March 19, 2000, at The Costume
Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
From
Elvis Presley's gold suit gaudily studded with rhinestones, to
the Beatles' colorful marching band costumes for the front cover
of the "St. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band" album,
to a psychedelic flashback of the 1960s with Donovan, Hendrix
and Joplin style, to 1970s Stevie Nicks' ultra-fem witchy woman
attire, to Bono's holographic "Mirrorball Man" outfit,
to finally TLC's superheroine/rollerblader queen/sexpot flare
this exhibit captures the incredible, individual visual personalities
behind the music and voices. It also evokes the essence of what
makes a sex symbol/music idol. The music, vocals and lyrics,
of course, are at the heart of this creation. Beyond that, the
spirits behind the music express themselves further with their
style and apparel. We are mesmerized by the whole presence of
an idol--musical and visual.
The
exhibition was divided into four rooms. One room focused especially
on the 1960s, the hippie flower child era galore highlighting
Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Jim Morrison among their peers.
A second room underscored the fantasy aspects of a rock idol's
apparel. David Bowie especially stood out here as he was one
of the first rock performers to collaborate with fashion designers
for his shows and videos. As his character Ziggy Stardust he
could take full creative license to depart from the ordinary
world. A third room emphasized the heavy metal, hardcore, S&M
and grunge: black leather, razor blades, metal studs, buckles
and belts, faux leopard skins, tiger skins, snake skins, camouflage
and, of course, torn denim. The final room encompassed various
expressions of the pure beauty, glamour, elegance and sexiness
of the star--the style of Diana Ross, the Supremes, Aretha Franklin,
Tina Turner, Grace Jones and James Brown with his blue-sequined
tuxedo jacket that he can feeeeel good in. Throughout the exhibit,
various rock/pop/soul recordings were played and monitors displayed
numerous music videos.
So
stepping back into the world of psychedelia, Haight-Ashbury,
San Francisco, love and peace man, and some LSD Jimi Hendrix'
trademark black felt hat from 1967 was featured along with the
orange floral silk shirt and black silk satin pants. Also, on
display was his jacket of polychrome blue-green-red striped wool
twill, trimmed with gold buttons, in which he performed "Purple
Haze" on TV. In this room one could also find the memorable,
seductive black leather pants and a blue corduroy tunic jacket
worn by Jim Morrison of The Doors in 1968. Morrison established
the tight black leather pants and long, unkempt hair look that
was copied by many performers later in rock history, even into
the heavy metal and grunge age.
Imagine
what it was like to be at the Newport Pop Festival in Rhode Island,
1968, watching Janis Joplin screech with that gravel-grating
voice in a black velvet minidress and black lace tights with
her long pink/magenta/purple feathery headdress waving all about
her. Linda Gravenites designed the dress; Joplin herself did
the fancy beadwork on the breasts. Also, featured was Joplin's
ivory silk shawl embroidered with pink flowers. Joplin was known
for combining thrift shop finds with contemporary late '60s styles.
The
hippies went wild, of course, over their flowers and embroidery,
and we can't forget tie-dyed items. John Sebastian of The Lovin'
Spoonful had his tie-dyed cape, shirt and pants designed by Annie
Thomas from 1969 displayed. Donovan's Victorian, triangular,
black silk velvet cape with finely embroidered flowers was also
featured. The flower-power dress worn by Mama Cass from The Mamas
and the Papas sported big yellow and orange flower and sun images
in applique on a long white dress. A giant Virgo symbol was also
depicted on the front of the dress, reminding us that it was
the "Age of Aquarius" and that there was increased
interest in alternative philosophies such as astrology during
this time. The Moroccan, Asian and Middle Eastern caftans of
Donovan and Michelle Phillips of The Mamas and the Papas also
revealed the interest in and influence of the alternative Eastern
philosophies and fashion in that era. Just meditate on it, man.
Stevie
Nicks' unique ultra-fem, long, flowing, mystery woman attire
ushered the show into the 1970s. From 1977 an ensemble of black
silk chiffon and silk panne velvet designed by Margi Kent with
a black leotard designed by Repetto and ballet shoes were Nicks'
logo pictured on the cover of Fleetwood Mac's "Rumours"
album. She was well-known for performing the hit "Rhiannon"
in this outfit. After being suspected of involvement in witchcraft
due to her black attire, she switched to wearing what she called
her "Easter egg outfits" to quell such rumors. Such
a dress of long, pink, flowing silk chiffon and velvet decorated
with shiny thread and sequins from 1986 was also designed by
Margi Kent. Nicks wore this with high-heeled pink suede boots
that came to the knee.
Going
into the world of fantasy David Bowie leads us--from his "Thin
White Duke" look of 1976 with black vest and pants and long
white shirt, to his silver metallic net clown costume of 1980
worn in the "Ashes to Ashes" video and designed by
Natasha Korniloff with a hat created by Gretchen Fenston, and
then to his 1987 chest-revealing jacket and pants of gold leather
complete with plexiglass, mylar and leather gold wings attached
on the back, all designed by Diana Mosley. This last costume
referred to the concept of metamorphosis. Bowie, indeed, has
been able to metamorphose through time and styles perhaps better
than any other rock performer. His next look will always be unpredictable
and imaginative. There is never just one David Bowie style. Also,
featured in the exhibit were his 1972 jumpsuit of red, black
and cream painted leather, designed by Kansai Yamamoto, that
he wore when performing as "Ziggy Stardust." Another
"Stardust" costume from 1972 of a black and white quilted
vinyl jumpsuit with exaggerated pants flared out to the sides,
worn with red vinyl boots, was also designed by Kansai Yamamoto.
Don't forget he's British--his long, deliberately torn, Union
Jack jacket from 1996-97 was also in the show. He was inspired
by a jacket of a similar ilk worn by The Who's Pete Townshend
from the 1960s.
Mick
Jagger of The Rolling Stones also used such political symbols
as part of his apparel. A giant red, white and blue silk cape
from 1981, designed by Giorgio de Sant'Angelo, with the American
flag depicted on one-half and the British Union Jack on the other
half was sported by Jagger in performances during the height
of the Reagan-Thatcher era. Jagger was into thrusting his sexuality
all over with tight, chest-exposing, velvet jumpsuits by Ossie
Clark and American-style baseball-football costumes designed
by Antony Price. These outfits really allowed him to move that
body and dance and jump all over the stage. What's amazing though,
seeing his costumes close-up, is how does such a mythic figure
fit into such a tiny outfit? Our idols in real life are much
smaller than they appear in performance.
Among
other performers who are into indulging fantasy, Bono of U2 had
a suit made of blue plastic disks designed by Wild and Lethal
Trash in 1997-98 in the exhibit. Most interesting was his "Mirrorball
Man" costume--jacket, pants, cowboy hat and umbrella made
of silvery, opalescent holographic fabric designed by Joe Casely-Hayford,
the hat by Stephen Jones. The outfit was based on a combination
of two American stereotypes of the TV evangelist and the "electric
cowboy." Bono also had a suit of gold leather and glitter
boots which he wore with a red shirt and devil horns in the show,
again designed by Joe Casely-Hayford.
Busta
Rhymes performed in a stunning ankle-length outfit of floral-patterned
gold lace lined with scarlet twill with matching shoes. It was
designed in 1998 by Rasheed Booth and Busta himself. Prince's
1984 coat of shiny Lurex worn on the cover of the "Purple
Rain" album was also displayed along with his high-heeled,
thigh-high, black suede boots with a silk, damask and suede vest
and pants decorated with large white buttons placed at random.
In 1998 TLC wore sexy, black vinyl and rubber superheroine/rollerblade
queen costumes with flashing red lights designed by Julianne
Mijares complete with ultra-high platform shoes. Many rock stars
have worn the ultra-high platform shoes or high-heeled boots.
It's a sexual trademark.
Some
performers opted for a more Las Vegas style glitz, such as Elvis,
Cher and Elton John. In 1957 Elvis wore a gold suit with silver
and rhinestone trim and matching gold shoes designed by Nudie
the Taylor of Los Angeles. Also, a white jumpsuit and matching
cape decorated with gold and multicolored faux jewels were on
exhibit and a black suit with similar jewel-work and amply revealed
chest. Both Cher and Elton John often wore outfits designed by
Bob Mackie, Cher with turquoise ostrich feathers, faux jewels
and little mirrors and plenty of waistline and cleavage exposed.
She also had a black Lycra jumpsuit with holes cut into the fabric
so one could view various Cher parts. Elton John dressed in a
silver-sequined Statue of Liberty costume--again the American
theme.
Some
outfits, by contrast, were more down-to-earth and emphasized
a connection to the experience of the common people. Bruce Springsteen
with his tight jeans and flannel shirt was the king of this look.
He epitomized the average American man. Whereas, Angus Young,
lead guitarist of AC/DC always wore his English schoolboy outfit
complete with shorts, cap and little white socks. Young's image
was the quintessence of the rebellious English schoolboy gone
wild. His costume appeared in very dark, burgundy velvet in the
show.
On
to heavy metal, hardcore and grunge world we go There has always
been the fantasy of rock hero/heroine as a really, really bad
boy/bad girl or alter ego. It's the same sort of sexual appeal
of Dracula or the Werewolf that have always captivated audiences.
Perhaps it's a dark, angry, visceral, often hidden part of ourselves
that we wish we could act out, so the performers express it for
us, and we can vicariously enjoy the thrill. The four Kiss black
monster/space demon costumes with metal and silver trim and full,
exaggerated black and white makeup were prominently displayed.
Judas Priest's black leather and metal studs, Lou Reed's black
leather and snakeskin, and Alice Cooper's leather bondage, faux
leopard skin and thigh-high boot looks were all featured. Cooper
had also sported a "Flames and Whips" outfit. Steve
Tyler of Aerosmith offered an alternative with his dark pink
satin suit, chest revealed (again), with accompanying long pink
scarves all designed by Teresa Tyler. Men definitely still predominate
on the metal scene.
Rod
Stewart's tiger print knit jumpsuit was in the show. Also, emphasizing
the animality theme, were Keith Richards' faux tiger fur coat
by Fletcher Joyce and zebra stripe silk shirt with black jeans
by Tommy Hilfiger. David Byrne's hot pink, faux fur suit was
sported. Stephen Sprouse designed a unique outfit for Guns N'
Roses of a red plaid kilt with red shorts. They went perfectly
with the guitar. Also, Michael Jackson had a black wool suit
with tons of extra buckles for decor.
The
exhibit wouldn't be complete without Courtney Love's ultra-Seattle
grunge look, baggie pants draped over the hips, torn shirt and
well-revealed waistline. She often liked to wear slips, just
slips, in performance. Remember the razor blades and safety pins
of the punks and new wavers? Too bad they couldn't include some
of the hairstyles in the show, but the long silver evening dress
of 2000 razor blades worn by Deborah Harry of Blondie, designed
by Michael Schmidt, was exhibited and also Harry's camouflage
suit by Stephen Sprouse. Devo's Tyvek suit and red plastic hat
from 1977 were also included and the Puff Daddy rapper look.
Madonna
has explored various looks, but almost all with some overtly
sexual theme. Jean Paul Gaultier designed a number of her outfits,
such as her corset of gold quilted fabric with pointy breasts
from 1990, her black pinstripe suit with pink-white satin bodice
exposed under the jacket and a red satin kimono-based dress from
1999 with much cleavage revealed. Also, Madonna's ivory tulle
and lace ensemble from 1984 designed by Maripol for the "Like
a Virgin" tour was a centerpiece with a frisky short and
low-cut bridal dress complete with a "Boy Toy" belt.
However, none of her early Catholic girl with a cross and lacey
undergarment outfits were present.
Finally,
the realm of just glamour, elegance and sexy style ... Tina Turner
has legs and she wants you to know that and make sure you don't
miss them. Go girl. Several micro-mini dresses were on display:
a dress of gray chiffon with a flowery pattern and decorated
with rhinestones designed by Giorgio Armani from 1999, another
dress of silver-tone mesh with rhinestones and black lace trim
designed by Gianni Versace, and an ivory net dress with mirror-like
stones scattered all over made by C.D. Greene in 1997. If one
was going to have a huge comeback, these are the kinds of dresses
to do it in. Purportedly, Turner wanted Versace to design an
even shorter version of his dress for her live performances.
Go girl.
A
slick white suit with long white fur coat and hat worn by Grace
Jones in 1980 and designed by Issey Miyake were in this section
of the exhibition. Miyake also created a breastplate of gray
fiberglass for Jones. Also, part of the elaborate outfit designed
by Keith Haring and worn by Jones were on display.
Another
kimono-styled dress of light blue silk brocade with a long floral
pattern, designed by Alexander McQueen in 1997, also revealed
cleavage when worn by Bjork. Evidently, Bjork wore her kimono
dress before Madonna wore hers. Well, Madonna is known for taking
other people's ideas and capitalizing off of them, like vogueing
and the whole idea of the Madonna, mother of Jesus, so often
depicted and idolized throughout art history. Bjork went for
an ultra-fem look in 1995 with a full-skirted dress of gray and
black printed organza designed by Commes des Garcon's.
In
the glamour and elegance section, of course, there was a purple
sequined and feathered full-length evening dress from 1978 worn
by Diana Ross. Also, The Supremes' three pale pink and floral-design
beaded gowns that appeared on "The Ed Sullivan Show"
in 1966, and Aretha Franklin's light turquoise silk chiffon,
lightly rhinestoned, full-length evening gown with matching feather
stole from 1990 were featured. Last but not least amongst these
women was Mary J. Blige's leopard-print silk chiffon ensemble
with a brown fur, a matching veil over her head and dark sunglasses,
all styled by Derek Khan for an utter movie star look. Dolce
& Gabbana designed the dress, Maximilian the fur and Yves
Saint Laurent the sunglasses.
Not
just the women had that elegance and style--James Brown's blue-sequined
tuxedo jacket with blue wool pants from 1967 were regally featured.
Also, shown were Marvin Gaye's military-styled jacket of white
moire faille with gold braid trim from 1982, Smokey Robinson's
gold and bronze metallic brocade tunic from 1972, Stevie Wonder's
"African American" entitled suit with African beads
and colors adorning, and finally Ray Charles' 1960 jacket of
ikat silk with dark red, maroon and silver-gray stripes designed
by Parkview Clothes.
"Rock
Style" definitely was an exhibit with which to indulge one's
rock 'n' roll fantasies and bring them a little closer to reality.
Not to mention it's a beautiful retrospective and salute to the
recent icons who have shaped our times.
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